Bender_
X
Got 168 Little Creatures pint bottles lined up for pick up tomoz. My family makes our own tomato sauce but I'll keep a few aside for beers.
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Toast Beer / Homebrew Thread
- Thread starter SpaceClef
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Bender_
X
I'm gonna go one step further and skip the brewing and go straight to shooting metho straight into my veins!
Here2tellyouwhy
SA GREAT
Don't forget the cordial
Black IPA in the fermenter, OG at 1.082 
with a full packet of US-05 for a 5L batch
with a full packet of US-05 for a 5L batch
How many IBU is this going to be? Did you use roasted barley or something a bit milder? It's not super common to see really hoppy dark beers above 8%, will be interested to hear how it tastesBlack IPA in the fermenter, OG at 1.082
Based on http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/97818/stone-sublimely-self-righteous-ale-clone but using the hops I had on hand
Bubbling away nicely so far
Bubbling away nicely so far
Attachments
Did you aerate it Lynchy?
Just placed a grain order for a pale ale this morn. American two row, some carapils, wheat, crystal and acidulated malt.
Got a bucket load of mosaic hops to use (not my fav so need to explore some pairing options). If this one goes well I'll take the keg up to S bend for a bucks next month
Just placed a grain order for a pale ale this morn. American two row, some carapils, wheat, crystal and acidulated malt.
Got a bucket load of mosaic hops to use (not my fav so need to explore some pairing options). If this one goes well I'll take the keg up to S bend for a bucks next month
Looks like I did enough after cooling the wort to get the air in. Had to between tubs a couple of times to filter out the late hops (will be using a hop sock next time!) and also giving the sealed tub a spin after sprinkling the yeast.
The airlock is going pretty crazy, started within hours.
Bender_
X
So do I have to brew to the size of the fermenter? Or could I theoretically brew a 10l batch in a 25l tub?
Are we talking about the fermentation vessel or the boiler?
I brewed 5L batches with a 15L stock pot but reading through some of the guides you want less air in the fermentation vessel rather than more.
I brewed 5L batches with a 15L stock pot but reading through some of the guides you want less air in the fermentation vessel rather than more.
You can ferment a 10L yield in a 25L vessel but that is a lot of head space. The co2 produced during the fermentation process protects the beer from ingress of oxygen.
The larger the head space the less effective this will be, more so when dryhopping as some co2 will be released to do so.
On the flip side you need some head space otherwise your krausen will spill out the top
Bender_
X
Week one's foraging complete:
Got the capper off Gumtree and the guy chucked in his bottle tree. Fermenter I bought new though.
Got the capper off Gumtree and the guy chucked in his bottle tree. Fermenter I bought new though.
Who are you guys using for grain suppliers? I need to pick up some pale 2 row for this week's Brew.
NOR is easiety
NOR is easiety
TWOC (SOR) but ring/email ahead.
Too many acronyms m8
Better off making your batch volume around 5-10L within the total volume of the vessel for the same reasons DanWCE mentioned. But no reason why you couldn't do a 10 in a 25. Just wouldn't do it constantly.
Cracked one of my coffee stouts after less than a week in the bottle just cos I'm an impatient alco campaigner
It tastes....bloody amazing
So excited to try it colder and fully carbed
It'll be my best homebrew by far I reckon
Howd you go infusing the coffee? It's a delicate art form I could imagine. I've had many beers over-coffeed and could count the great ones on a single hand. Never attempted it myself though.
Just made a 800 ml batch of strong cold brew, pulled a 250 ml sample of the finished beer, added 2.5 ml of coffee, then 5 ml, then added 7.5 ml and tasted each time
I went with the latter (3% or ~575 ml of coffee in 19L of beer) but then added another 25% to about 8 bottles just to see how they ended up
I reckon the extra 25% ones will be better. the coffee was subtle in the (regular) bottle I cracked tonight. Wanted to undershoot it than make it too strong
I reckon doing it like that is the safest way, though you are reliant on judging the taste of it just from having a warm flat sample straight from the FV
Black IPA in the fermenter, OG at 1.082
4 days and its down to 1.03, yeasty boys doing their work.
2 brews done today
Centennial/Cascade based pale ale, ~50 IBU and a Centennial/cascade/mosaic 33 IBU pale. Both in the fermenters with OG at ~1.055
I'm thinking about entering a red IPA in the DTC Modus Operandi comp, but unfortunately I don't rate their red as highly as most. It's overdone with specialty malts which makes it cloyingly sweet.
To avoid doing the same I reckon I could mash low for a dry beer but add specialty malts for residual sweetness and dextrose to keep it from going too chewy.
This citra lupuln2 needs to be used and how better to use it...
To avoid doing the same I reckon I could mash low for a dry beer but add specialty malts for residual sweetness and dextrose to keep it from going too chewy.
This citra lupuln2 needs to be used and how better to use it...
I will see if I can put my black IPA in, cascadian howl clone..
You could enter it in the IPA category. The only replica beers to compete against are pale ale and red IPA, and they stipulate you must use hop x and y.
The IPA category is a free for all as long as ABV is between 6-8%
