Roast Grumpy Old Thread II - the grumpiness continues

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Gasometer said:
Idk hence my post

I got mine in 87 but have memories of being worried the next day of not being 0% but can’t remember if that feeling lasted 1 year or 2
Click to expand...
Yeah i'm trying to remember the first time I had a beer before driving ... it might have been two years. I also have a vague memory of just missing out on a one year P plate and also missing out on a longer one (3 years with different coloured P plates) with more serious restrictions.
 
1 year back then
 

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Samsquanch said:
Thinking about what to get you for Christmas this year Gaso. It's hard to buy for a bloke who has everything but I just saw something that you might like...
View attachment 2148410
Click to expand...


Pfft

“I am bringing the good threads back to the Main Board”
 
Gasometer said:
Anyone here on P Plates in the mid 1980’s from Vic?

Was it 2 years or 1 year on P’s?
Click to expand...

Yeah, in 1986 it was one year with a white plate with a red P, and .05 for all including P platers.
 
Gasometer said:
Idk

I switched over to Brave and ever since this has been a pleasant site to visit albeit the daily updates on sacking Jy and LMac
Click to expand...
I recall recommending it, works for me as well, was unbearable round here at times on other browsers. You litterally couldnt type a post without half a dozen popups stealing focas as you typed.
 
Gasometer said:
Anyone here on P Plates in the mid 1980’s from Vic?

Was it 2 years or 1 year on P’s?
Click to expand...
Didn't get my car license til I was 40 .... got my bike one at 18, had a Tank one, tried in at the Seymour RTA to get the combination turned into a car license, got asked "how many times do you think people have tried this?" :-D

Was riding down cranny rd with a shovel hanging out the back of my gearsack bag one day .... thought "it might be time: :cool:

Now, I can't see how motorbikes progress without a coffee holder. Reckon I'd have to get 1 of those 3 wheeler things!

And in a not quite as grumpy old as some around here, apparently banged out 17 years as of yesterday ....
 
Gasometer said:
Idk

I switched over to Brave and ever since this has been a pleasant site to visit albeit the daily updates on sacking Jy and LMac
Click to expand...
What is this Brave you speak of?
 

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Wiring inside the wall cavities of 2 storey houses.

Not 240V or Ethernet by the way... Just intercom and doorbell wiring, some of which I'm trying to re-purpose.

I decommissioned the old Swann video doorbell. The picture was dodgy and the doorbell was pretty crap, plus, the builder mounted the button near the front door a bit too high.

I installed a Google doorbell (yes Hojuman my doorbell has an IP Address) and managed to cobble together some of the camera wires, which I spliced onto the power wire that ran back to a GPO in the linen cupboard so I could extend 14V AC to the Google doorbell camera, which, due to it's shape and a bit of crafty mounting, had the button about 6" lower than the original.

That's good - it works.

Last week we had a new AC installed so I got an Airtouch controller. That is connected to the Gateway in the ceiling via a data cable that's somewhat like an Ethernet cable but different. The electrician and myself spent a couple of hours (well, I did, while he was doing the zone cabling etc. trying to route the data cable to downstairs where we wanted the controller to be located (it conveniently would have gone over the hole where the old video screen for the Swann doorbell was located.

We tried pulling the power cable and the camera data cable but these appear to be clamped somewhere inside the wall. They wouldn't budge.

We drilled holes in the return air riser to attempt to get to the downstairs wall cavity but the wall downstairs doesn't line up below the upstairs wall. We even removed ceiling speakers and stuck cameras up to see if that gave us a clue but we didn't manage to find a route for the Airtouch data cable.

So, we have the Airtouch upstairs. No big deal as we can control the AC using our phones and iPads etc.

But I still have a hole in the wall where I was intending the Airtouch controller to be.

Brilliant idea...

I can use an older iPad, wall mounted as the downstairs controller. Technically, an Android tablet would be better as I could run it in Kiosk mode without a lock code, and using the right tool, I could have it it use the front camera to auto-wake to display the Airtouch settings when somebody approaches it (tested using an old phone). But I really don't want to buy an Android tablet. My old Lenovo tablet is utter utter garbage (and it's too out of date to run Airtouch 5).

All good - I have an older but still OK iPad and it works (but no kiosk mode and no auto-wake unfortunately thanks to Steve Jobs not having the foresight to predict my use-case).

However, I want to keep the iPad charged.

My brainiac idea was to use the power lead that ran to the downstairs Swann video screen. Connect an in-line socket that fits one of those 12V USB adaptors you stick in car cig lighter sockets, plug in the USB cable to that, shove it inside the wall and carefully route the cable with a right angle lightning plug so that it's only minimally visible. At the other end of the Swann power lead, I connect a 12V DC power brick (also a timer so that the iPad is kept topped up but not over-charged).

Genius, except that the power wired that was connected to the Swann and was working now appears to be open circuit.

Maybe we pulled too hard on it, or maybe it somehow got snipped when the blokes were inside my roof running the new ducting last week.

I anticipate a bit of exploring inside the roof space tomorrow or Tuesday.


And that my friends, will make me grumpy.
 
Samsquanch said:
Wiring inside the wall cavities of 2 storey houses.

Not 240V or Ethernet by the way... Just intercom and doorbell wiring, some of which I'm trying to re-purpose.

I decommissioned the old Swann video doorbell. The picture was dodgy and the doorbell was pretty crap, plus, the builder mounted the button near the front door a bit too high.

I installed a Google doorbell (yes Hojuman my doorbell has an IP Address) and managed to cobble together some of the camera wires, which I spliced onto the power wire that ran back to a GPO in the linen cupboard so I could extend 14V AC to the Google doorbell camera, which, due to it's shape and a bit of crafty mounting, had the button about 6" lower than the original.

That's good - it works.

Last week we had a new AC installed so I got an Airtouch controller. That is connected to the Gateway in the ceiling via a data cable that's somewhat like an Ethernet cable but different. The electrician and myself spent a couple of hours (well, I did, while he was doing the zone cabling etc. trying to route the data cable to downstairs where we wanted the controller to be located (it conveniently would have gone over the hole where the old video screen for the Swann doorbell was located.

We tried pulling the power cable and the camera data cable but these appear to be clamped somewhere inside the wall. They wouldn't budge.

We drilled holes in the return air riser to attempt to get to the downstairs wall cavity but the wall downstairs doesn't line up below the upstairs wall. We even removed ceiling speakers and stuck cameras up to see if that gave us a clue but we didn't manage to find a route for the Airtouch data cable.

So, we have the Airtouch upstairs. No big deal as we can control the AC using our phones and iPads etc.

But I still have a hole in the wall where I was intending the Airtouch controller to be.

Brilliant idea...

I can use an older iPad, wall mounted as the downstairs controller. Technically, an Android tablet would be better as I could run it in Kiosk mode without a lock code, and using the right tool, I could have it it use the front camera to auto-wake to display the Airtouch settings when somebody approaches it (tested using an old phone). But I really don't want to buy an Android tablet. My old Lenovo tablet is utter utter garbage (and it's too out of date to run Airtouch 5).

All good - I have an older but still OK iPad and it works (but no kiosk mode and no auto-wake unfortunately thanks to Steve Jobs not having the foresight to predict my use-case).

However, I want to keep the iPad charged.

My brainiac idea was to use the power lead that ran to the downstairs Swann video screen. Connect an in-line socket that fits one of those 12V USB adaptors you stick in car cig lighter sockets, plug in the USB cable to that, shove it inside the wall and carefully route the cable with a right angle lightning plug so that it's only minimally visible. At the other end of the Swann power lead, I connect a 12V DC power brick (also a timer so that the iPad is kept topped up but not over-charged).

Genius, except that the power wired that was connected to the Swann and was working now appears to be open circuit.

Maybe we pulled too hard on it, or maybe it somehow got snipped when the blokes were inside my roof running the new ducting last week.

I anticipate a bit of exploring inside the roof space tomorrow or Tuesday.


And that my friends, will make me grumpy.
Click to expand...
exactly what i was doing today, running cable through our 2 story house, cathedral ceiling upstairs , slab underneath, was the last part of the puzzle with all the underground stuff in, got me gigabit ethernet across single mode fibre to the barn now, big jump from wireless 15mb to gb!
 
Samsquanch said:
Wiring inside the wall cavities of 2 storey houses.

Not 240V or Ethernet by the way... Just intercom and doorbell wiring, some of which I'm trying to re-purpose.

I decommissioned the old Swann video doorbell. The picture was dodgy and the doorbell was pretty crap, plus, the builder mounted the button near the front door a bit too high.

I installed a Google doorbell (yes Hojuman my doorbell has an IP Address) and managed to cobble together some of the camera wires, which I spliced onto the power wire that ran back to a GPO in the linen cupboard so I could extend 14V AC to the Google doorbell camera, which, due to it's shape and a bit of crafty mounting, had the button about 6" lower than the original.

That's good - it works.

Last week we had a new AC installed so I got an Airtouch controller. That is connected to the Gateway in the ceiling via a data cable that's somewhat like an Ethernet cable but different. The electrician and myself spent a couple of hours (well, I did, while he was doing the zone cabling etc. trying to route the data cable to downstairs where we wanted the controller to be located (it conveniently would have gone over the hole where the old video screen for the Swann doorbell was located.

We tried pulling the power cable and the camera data cable but these appear to be clamped somewhere inside the wall. They wouldn't budge.

We drilled holes in the return air riser to attempt to get to the downstairs wall cavity but the wall downstairs doesn't line up below the upstairs wall. We even removed ceiling speakers and stuck cameras up to see if that gave us a clue but we didn't manage to find a route for the Airtouch data cable.

So, we have the Airtouch upstairs. No big deal as we can control the AC using our phones and iPads etc.

But I still have a hole in the wall where I was intending the Airtouch controller to be.

Brilliant idea...

I can use an older iPad, wall mounted as the downstairs controller. Technically, an Android tablet would be better as I could run it in Kiosk mode without a lock code, and using the right tool, I could have it it use the front camera to auto-wake to display the Airtouch settings when somebody approaches it (tested using an old phone). But I really don't want to buy an Android tablet. My old Lenovo tablet is utter utter garbage (and it's too out of date to run Airtouch 5).

All good - I have an older but still OK iPad and it works (but no kiosk mode and no auto-wake unfortunately thanks to Steve Jobs not having the foresight to predict my use-case).

However, I want to keep the iPad charged.

My brainiac idea was to use the power lead that ran to the downstairs Swann video screen. Connect an in-line socket that fits one of those 12V USB adaptors you stick in car cig lighter sockets, plug in the USB cable to that, shove it inside the wall and carefully route the cable with a right angle lightning plug so that it's only minimally visible. At the other end of the Swann power lead, I connect a 12V DC power brick (also a timer so that the iPad is kept topped up but not over-charged).

Genius, except that the power wired that was connected to the Swann and was working now appears to be open circuit.

Maybe we pulled too hard on it, or maybe it somehow got snipped when the blokes were inside my roof running the new ducting last week.

I anticipate a bit of exploring inside the roof space tomorrow or Tuesday.


And that my friends, will make me grumpy.
Click to expand...
While you were doing all that, my best little mate and I had a spot of beach cricket, home for a break, played indoor soccer, came home and ripped through some tacos :)
 
koshari said:
exactly what i was doing today, running cable through our 2 story house, cathedral ceiling upstairs , slab underneath, was the last part of the puzzle with all the underground stuff in, got me gigabit ethernet across single mode fibre to the barn now, big jump from wireless 15mb to gb!
Click to expand...
Took some stuff to Vinnie's during the week. They had a stack of fibre cables for $2 a roll. Probably 5 or 10 metres.
 
Samsquanch said:
Took some stuff to Vinnie's during the week. They had a stack of fibre cables for $2 a roll. Probably 5 or 10 metres.
Click to expand...
Fibre patch leads or posibly spdif ? What color?

Its a bit of a minefield, then you have single and multimode, get om4, with 1310um you can run either multimode or single mode. Multimode is good for home as runs are in hundreds of meters range rather than km range. Weaker lasers as you font need to worry about burning out your receiving end optics or using attenuators. More robust fibre as well.
 

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Roast Grumpy Old Thread II - the grumpiness continues

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